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- Old Untold Series
Many generations share stories with their descendants and like the telephone game played in primary school the story changes or evolves. A small project I started to piece together a few years ago was the Old Untold series starting with my grandma Rex and after hearing the stories that my husband's grandfather Gjeto shared with my husband's generation sparked this series to life again. Most likely you or your parent's have had a family member pass away and a question or comment is made in the years that follow "I wish I would have asked that when...., oh well I guess we will never know." Sadly this comment is repeated with out much thought but what if you sat down with the loved ones you have left and fill in the gaps now. My beloved maternal Grandma Rexena is my last living grandparent. She is 85 and fiercely independent, strong spirited, happy, fun loving, adventurous, best dressed, beautiful soul, honest and the air that fills my lungs. I hold her legend and spirit tightly because she is worthy but also because she is the last thread to my old untold. We have weekly conversations about her week, she is a busy lady with card parties, luncheons, ladies breakfast groups, TOPS, Red Hats, and more, and my week's activities on the homestead but we also discuss old untold stories. In one of my latest conversations we discussed the passing of her father. He was diagnosed with throat cancer in May and passed in October of 1974. When he was initially told about his diagnosis and prognosis he shed tears and was nearly sobbing when he whispered, "I am scared I gave this to my buddies I went hunting with last weekend." He had no idea that this disease was not contagious and couldn't be spread by sleeping in close proximity to others, unlike diseases that plagued his generation tuberculosis (TB), smallpox, flu and cholera. The doctor and my grandmother explained the disease in more detail and he calmed down but was still aware of the seriousness of his prognosis. My great grandfather Rex Bridger was the father of four beautiful daughters, one charming son, husband to the magnificent Twyla, coal miner until the Elmira mines closed, roofer for Fry Roofing in Kansas City, hunter and overall hard worker to provide a life for his family. His youngest daughter, MarBeth, was born with down syndrome, she still lived at home due to his hard work and Twyla, she wouldn't have it any other way, which was rare in this time period, most were institutionalized at an adolescent age. My great grandmother Twyla was the family genealogist and historian keeping a record of past family members, burial sites and dates, she also was an artist, painter, quilter and brilliant dedicated mother. She met Rex while attending a secretary school and when introduced this hard working man to her father Earl he disapproved and never spoke to Rex for as long as my grandma can remember. When they would visit Twyla's parents, Rex never came inside and only Twyla's mom came out to speak to to her father. My grandma never really understood why her grandpa Earl disliked her father Rex but just assumed it was because of his blue collar status and then she chuckled "He was always a cranky old man." Our conversations about the past always make my grandma Rexena nostalgic, usually leave her laughing and even make her curious about some details she can't recall or questions she never thought to ask. I challenge you, take the time to ask, listen and document the stories of your loved ones, embrace the knowledge and hold it for the next generation.
- Spring and Summer Blooms
Spring is my husband's favorite time of year here the garden comes to life. He walks the garden each morning and comes in grinning like a Cheshire cat. Below are some of my favorite shots of the garden and all things pretty from February to current day. And for my husband the aspect of wine in the future =
- Spring is coming...
Last fall my husband planted cabbage, garlic, and onions. Cabbage never really took off, we planted it a little late in the season but we had success with garlic and onions. After a very wet January and the temperatures starting to rise we started to prep for spring planting. We spent a few days researching, discussing and gathering seeds and bulbs. We started with two new rows for more garlic and onions and eventually a third row. This was manual shovel to earth dig, wacking aka tilling and weeding, sweat equity times 1000. His mom and our neighbor helped with the planting of the first two rows of onions and I had the first experience shoveling poo aka fertilizer. At the end of the third row we planted spring lettuce, spinach and arugula. My husband created a mini green house for the greens, temperatures where still low at night Next we dug out a small herb garden for dill, oregano, basil, lavender, and chamomile. And then our potato project began. THIS DIGGING TOOK FOREVER! And just when when I thought we were close to done, our neighbor showed up with another 10 kg of baby potatoes to plant and then 5 kg two days later. In total we planted 15 kg of baby potatoes and 30 kg of regular potatoes. While we were digging our potato garden my sister-in-law was visiting and her husband's aunt decided we needed three chickens, so we had 30 minutes to figure out a coop. We had discussed chickens for the spring when we fixed our out building but plan B, the old outhouse. My husband is amazing as always, he built a roost out of bamboo sticks, yes we have a random cluster of bamboo, and when the chickens arrived. We did clip their wings, we have rogue chickens from the neighbors jumping the fence so we wanted to prevent their wandering. And of course I named them Red, Henrietta, and Josephine. We cleaned out the failed cabbage and planted bush and climbing beans, carrots, leeks, pumpkin, and corn. Also started an extension of the winter onions along the back of the garden for strawberries, tea, cucumbers, egg plants and extended the herb garden to break up the spring lettuce. And then we moved on to a larger garden for zucchini, tomatoes, variety of peppers, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, cherry tomatoes, more bush beans, and then we moved to the front of the garden. We planted two peach trees, two cherry trees, three blueberry bushes, four blackberry bushes, and three different apple trees along the side and front of the garden. We dug out in front of the peach and cherry trees for additional cucumber, watermelon, cantaloupe and corn. We also gained a few additional animals during this time, we found a turtle in the garden we named her Juliet and when cleaning the field next to our garden we found her Romeo and brought him over to our garden. And received three additional chickens Juanita, Joy and Barn and two roosters Jack and Captain. And my wonderful husband installed a swing on the large mulberry tree. Are you tired yet, because I was exhausted after all the digging for the garden but we still had to dig out the vines, one foot on either side of the vine is good maintenance. When I first arrived at the home it was pink inside and tan outside, I ask to paint but husband simply said "Spring". So for my birthday he painted the interior and exterior and I painted the gate.
- Tis the Season for Grief and Tradition
December of last year was a difficult transition for our home. We started off on a high, we finished planting and weeding the garden of garlic, onion, and cabbage, tested and enjoyed the fireplace (literally roasting chestnuts on an open fire), explored the mountains on the other side of the lake via Montenegro on our anniversary and prepared our pig Bacon for St. Nicolas. We had dinner before leaving Montenegro and the owner whom was Albanian was boasting about how healthy he was and he looked twice as old as Art's dad who had just turned 75, the owner 55. On our way home from Montenegro we were discussing his parents, their good health and the fact that they had just moved in to an apartment. We knew that eventually they would retire, his dad was still working full-time, yes at 75, and they would relocate from Michigan to our home in Albania but what we didn't expect was that the following morning we would receive a phone call. Shock doesn't even describe our household over the next 20 days our house was transformed into grand central station. His father passed in the middle of the night of a sudden and life ending heart attack that no one saw coming. This is still gut wrenching to talk about but I do because this was my first crash course in Albanian culture and traditions. We live near his extended family and they stepped in right away to assist because we were both at loss as to what to do and how to do it. By that afternoon we had some idea of what to expect and house full of family. Now if you have been following my journey, I had only been here two months, so my language skills were very minor and I was now surrounded by family and strangers coming to pay their respects from early morning until 11 pm. Overwhelmed. Tradition - When a family member passes, the family home is turns into grand central station. Visitation - When guests (family, friends, strangers) arrive you greet them outside with the males first and then the females, usher them inside the family home or large reception tent where they sit in chairs at a table with a photo of the passed family member, the grieving family remains standing, the guests are offered cigarettes (still shaking my head), a shot of raki, and offered a turkish coffee. The guest then states their condolences via a scripted salute with raki and some will go immediately following this and some will stay and share stories of the passed loved one. The Wake - The wake typically follows the visitation, this is where they stay all night with the body in the home or tent outside the home, roasted lamb meal at midnight and this is typically immediate family. Day of Burial - Following the wake, another visitation is held in the morning at this point the family divides, the men greet the guests, the women are placed around the casket and the lines of guests are greeted then ushered through the line with the women around the casket, then the men go to the tables with raki and cigarettes and the women sit on benches and are offered some refreshments like bottled water or coffee, the priest will then come and do a short service and then the graveside service and burial. 3 Days post Burial - Then on at third day after the loved one is buried there is a visitation, another meal served to the grieving family at noon and they go back to the graveside. Sunday post Burial - The first Sunday post burial is another reception in the morning followed by a meal at noon. This is typically immediate family and the last gathering for out of town family members before they depart. So all in all this process should take about a week tops, but that was not the case for us, we had almost 11 days of visitation, they had a service for him in Michigan before transporting him here, and the rest of his family from the states arrived, then the wake followed by the rest of the above and an extra week of visitation post since Christmas fell in the middle of all of this. We had two large tents erected in our driveway to accommodate the massive amount of people and family. His mother and father were both the eldest of their siblings and my husband has 38 first cousins so this was a massive undertaking for just immediate family and his father was also a pillar of society and very well respected in this tiny town and so it was non-stop every day the entire time. Side bar - It was December and part of this tradition was leaving the door open during the day until late around 11ish pm. Our only source of heat at the time was our wood burning fireplace and the temperature that had been very mild dropped literally the day we received the call from a nice mid 60s to mid 40s. We did have two heaters put in the tents as well the night of the wake because the men had to stay outside to greet the guests and the women were inside with the casket. Other notes, there was never knock at the door with a casserole to just reheat, every meal was stressful we could be feeding 4 to 16 to 40, dress code is simply all black no exceptions during this period (some family members carry this on for a year), if you are the widow it is all black for the rest of your life by tradition, and did I mention I still could barely understand or speak the language. And last but not least when I would go to town before all of this people would just stare (I don't look, dress or speak the part of a typical Albanian woman), now I go to town and people know that belong to the Malaj family and to my husband Chop (C, often greeted with smiles and greetings. Pretty sure now I have shook hands with every adult in the Bajze community. Our family from the states were departing on December 31 and they left me a small token of love with a live full grown turkey (somebody ask me what I missed about home, my response "my dad's smoked turkey"). My mother-in-law unpacked and made herself at home here and the extended family departed. Work - I was working up until the day of his father's death, my contract ended December 31 and we had previously discussed not renewing before this event so at this point we were sad, tired, overwhelmed and I had officially retired. 2019...please be kind and squeeze your parents a little tighter.
- Plan B or not to Plan B
I grew up in Missouri where tornado warnings were a beacon to go to the front porch to gaze at the sky. In Florida, hurricane season come with both the ones that stay and ride it out and the others that flee north as quickly as possible buying out all non perishables from every store on the way. My first hurricane came as Hurricane Irma and we chose to stay and ride it out with my husband's brother and his family. We learned the art of hurricane shutters and the ghost town syndrome when a storm threat is near. We had power and internet during the storm and it was that week while we were watching the news in the evening that I found an opening with a New Zealand company that I knew could be a great fit so I applied. Post hurricane no damage and the next week I left my career in Health IT in the US. I chose to stay home and work on my other passion in real estate. By the end of 2017, we had reached our savings goal, I had my real estate license, started the interview process for New Zealand and we were actively looking at business opportunities for my husband in New Zealand. Fast forward recap: Plan A - Savings and debt goals achieved Plan B - I got the job, I moved to New Zealand in March 2018 without my husband his visa pending Plan C - To live in my husband's family home in Bajze, Albania
- The beginning of Plan C
It started with an impulse to move to a warm, sunset worthy, non-stop flights, sand beneath my toes location in a quest to take back one thing, TIME. I was a fly warrior spending my Monday and Thursdays flying to and from my small college town Springfield, Missouri. The airport is tiny which means the planes are tiny and required a layover in Chicago, Atlanta or Dallas to get to most destinations. I was spending 18 to 22 hours a week in my commute to and from work, I was over it. I wanted my time to be mine so after spending the first half of the year traveling for pleasure outside of my work commute to New York, Florida, Hawaii, California, and Ireland, I decided to move. My short term lease started in August of 2015, it was a charming craftsman bungalow near Treasure Island in St. Petersburg, Florida. My first weekend was busy, I had to furnish the entire house including dishware, linens, furniture and more. And by more, I mean eat...over breakfast in a small beach cafe on that first damp Sunday morning I met a man whom I now proudly call husband. Yes, I said breakfast, I met my husband over an omelette and french toast. It was this day that Plan C was planted. The conversation started with where do you see yourself in five years, my response, "I want to live and work abroad before I am 40." His response while gesturing to me and himself, "Well if this doesn't work out, most likely living in my family home in Bajze, Albania or to live in a house on a hill over looking a body of water off the grid." Fast forward recap, we were married in December of 2015, bought a charming home in Apollo Beach, Florida Plan A - Payoff debt and save Plan B - Live and work abroad before 40 Plan C - Live in family home in Bajze, Albania
- Thunder Snow and Healthcare Abroad
After the New Year and with the recent and sudden loss of my father-in-law we set a few goals for 2019. Number one, our health. So settle in and sit down before I give you this play by play. My first experience with Albanian healthcare sent chills down my spine for the wrong reasons. Art had to update one of his immunizations for his visa back in February 2018 and we went to this small shack of a clinic. The scene was not pretty for someone that had spent the last 20 years working in healthcare. The immunizations were kept in ice cream coolers, the were no gloves in sight or hand soap or hand sanitizer, no sharps container for the needles (just threw them in the trash near the door), and the bathroom pretty sure had not been thoroughly cleaned in years (no toilet paper, no toilet seat, and no SOAP). I wanted to bathe my husband in rubbing alcohol upon exiting the clinic. So going in to this years health goal I was a little on edge. Health Insurance coverage for both of us for a year cost $278. It covers two annual check-ups, emergency coverage (ambulance and visit to ER) and some specialty visits. It is for one specific private hospital but healthcare in Albania is socialized so citizens can go to any public hospital for care. We weren't sure of how to schedule so my husband made a call, the answer blew my mind. It is open Sunday-Saturday 8-6 walk-in, no appointment required. We live two hours north of this hospital, we fasted the night before and left before 8 am. When we arrived we checked in filled out a single form, took copies of our insurance card and ID, and then we waited maybe 10 minutes and were called to do our labs. Quick, clean and painless, next we were escorted to another floor where we both had EKGs, a consult with the cardiologist and complete History and Physical. I was able to go and complete my yearly gyn visit and even received another order for an ultrasound, old softball injury to the left chest. We followed the instructions to the basement and made the appointment for the same day just a few hours later which was great because we were HUNGRY. We left and went to his sister's for lunch and came back received the ultrasound, all good by the way and then we met with another doctor to discuss our lab results. I also received a Dermatology consultation again SAME DAY. We left the hospital with the only bill which was for the Dermatology consultation $20, results and peace of mind. The staff for the most part was able to speak English so my visit was a breeze, the facility was clean and up to current standards. Healthcare abroad not so scary after all. So January is the coldest and also wettest month to date for me in Albania. We received the first real snow accompanied by loud thunder, yes THUNDER SNOW, I initially thought it was an avalanche. The amount of snow that typically falls in this valley town is a dusting at best but this was an exception, it snowed for three days. We made the most of it via snowball fights with the kids next door, a true and honorable snow queen of the vines and snow angels. After the snow came almost two weeks of rain, our yard was a giant mud pit until mid February. Other year goals to grow what we eat, spend wisely and when only necessary and explore every nook of this beautiful country.
- Visitors from a far...
We have had my husband's family visit from the states but this spring I had my first visitor of non family origin visit from San Francisco, Lauren. We have been friends since freshmen year of college (19 years ago), we were proud residence of Freddy's 3WW. We have had several adventures through out the years but this was very special, showing someone my forever home for the first time. It started with a two night stay in Rome and then short puddle jump flight to Tirane, the capital of Albania. My husband played the chauffeur/tour guide to this adventure. On our way from the airport to our homestead we stopped at two castles, Lezhe and Rozafa and had lunch in a small but beautiful beach town Shengjin on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. The next day we spent exploring one of the most scenic drives from Bajze to Vermosh, a small valley town tucked high in the northern mountains of Albania. The drive includes a large overlook of a canyon, beautiful river, bunkers, snow, wandering animals, waterfalls and little picturesque towns along the way. One of my favorite routes to wander so far in Albania. Lauren could have spent hours wandering a trail we found along the way, next time my dear, next time. The following day we explored my town of Bajze from the mount behind the house, garden, the lake to the small cafes and shops in our small city center. We made our way back south stopping in the city of bikes, Shkoder to walk the main strip of shops and even found an artisan jewelry shop ran by the same family for three generations (Lauren is a master craftswoman in the art of jewelry) right across from a restaurant called San Francisco. And we spent the last night of her visit in Tirane since she had a very early fight out in the morning and had a feast at my sister in law's home. In true Albanian tradition she was fed until she literally could not chew any more. Next trip for her will hopefully be for much longer and with her husband and the college family, we would get to explore much more like the southern coast and even a few days hiking. My next visitors were from New Zealand hailed via bike all the way from Greece. They are on an epic bike trip from Greece to Scotland. My friend Johan and his beautiful wife Deborah stayed with us for just one night, they share the dream of one day homesteading in New Zealand and living quite similar to Art and I. We had amazing conversations and laughs through out the evening. To read more about their amazing bike trip check out their blog: https://tourtheeurope.blogspot.com/
- Our personal fishing and swimming hole
Our small town borders a large lake called Lake Skadar. It shares borders between Montenegro and Albania. It is a fresh water lake fed by many springs and surrounded by mountains. It is a 15 minute bike ride to the lake's edge from our front door. Unlike the crowded lakes back in Missouri, when we visit the lake to fish or swim we are met with surreal silence with the exception of nature or a bird's call. It is peaceful and wonderful to relax and enjoy the scenery. The lake can be cold especially near the spring's eye but otherwise very refreshing on a hot day. We have had some minor success fishing. At one of our favorite spots there was an abandoned building that is now being converted into a restaurant and the other is a abandoned restaurant that was destroyed by a flood some years back but both locations are ideal for both swimming and fishing. Spring's Eye View from Montenegro looking back across the lake to Albania.
- Playing Chicken...
In total we had 27 baby chicks, 2 baby turkeys, 6 hens and 2 roosters in our poultry department this spring. By midsummer the count is 11 baby chicks, 2 roosters and 5 hens, loss to predators: two feral cats and either a hoot owl or hawk. The mother hens left their chicks about 6 weeks after hatching to fend for themselves. We left their shelters near our bedroom window so we could hear of any distress and several went missing without a sound, enter hawk or owl. Others we heard the distress but came to late to the rescue, enter said cats. The decision to move them to the larger coop with the hens and roosters in the back was made when we were losing a chick nearly every other day/night and the grapes are starting to ripen (the chicks like to roost on the vines). Let me set the ambiance of this scene. My husband has his big toes wrapped two days post op and can barely walk let alone run, it's dusk and light is fading fast and our yard is anything but level with lots of obstacles (random holes, fences, bricks, rocks, trenches, tree roots, etc). So we (my husband, his mom and I) gathered and corralled the baby chicks with the hens and the roosters towards the larger coop (shiny one on the right above) all good so far, but then it was like a game of tag. One would walk the plank almost into the coop and another would tag it, it would then a. fly and roost in the nearby fig tree or b. run flat out to the front yard. This ensued for an hour, dusk had faded and trip hazard increased by 100% we had only managed to get three of the baby chicks inside at this point and we were forced to start catching each chick one by one and placing them in the coop. Have you ever tried to catch a chicken? Have you ever tried to catch one in the dark without putting pressure on your big toes? It was MAYHEM. We managed to catch four more and place them in the coop, one decided to find shelter in an old coop so we secured and resigned to leave it there. We still had 5 on the loose, four had fled to the front yard to roost in the vines, we found and caught three but couldn't locate the last one in the front but did locate and caught the last one in the back. We walked the vineyard with flashlights twice trying but no luck. So 12 out of 13 were secured but as our luck would have it the night predator won and then their were 12. The following night we started the corral again as thunder was rolling in, the storm broke into a heavy rain storm so they were left to seek shelter or else. Well at around 2 am we hear a break in the rain and then the worst sound of distress. We saw the cat but were too late to save the chick so we are now down to 11 baby chicks. Free range chickens are a wonderful but it is a deadly game of chicken. Rest in peace my dears.